AKA Asia anew. The flight was as well as could be expected for a looonnnngggg flight. Arrived Bangkok. The New Siam II remaims the same but it won't be for long. They have taken over the entire corner now and are building an extension with a new lobby facing Th Phra Atit. I hate change, but the same people still staff the desk and I think the older woman who manages actually remembers us, especially when I mentioned our daughter the teacher. Ricky's Cafe has moved next door to a larger spot. The first morning was a little dodgy (but so were we)...I hate change (did I mention that?) but after the first bowl of meusli and fruit with yoghurt and the STRONG cup of coffee with sweet milk, I made peace with the new Ricky's and actually decided it might be a good thing! The day before we arrived there was a heavy rainstorm so the Bangkok air is clear and fresh (!) and it was actually cool in the morning. This made our transition easier. However, jetlag being what it is, we slept in the afternoon, dragged ourselves awake for dinner and then collapsed back in bed until we are wide awake at 1:00 am.
Since we are only in Bangkok for 2 days, we decided to go to Chatuchak Market immediately. Wow! It was cool and not crowded. While it is familiar to us, it is still one of the most exciting markets in the world and it was nice to stroll and see what was for sale. We had great coffee at a little stall. Coffee is the new "thing" in Thailand. It is grown here up in the north and the burdgeoning middle class has made it their own. Young people with wacky hair styles and hip clothes order lattes and capuccinos in English. Honestly, if you have ever thought about coming to Thailand, just go for it. It is quite wonderful here! I don't know whether these trips make us feel younger or older, but they certainly make us feel alive.
Day two was the Amulet Market. I thought I hadn't been there before, but I had...nevermind. It was like new. We took the river taxi from Pra Atit to Th Chang, walked through the warrens of stalls, sorted through bins and bins of amulets, statues, small penis talismans, monks in plastic covers, jars of herbs, bottle of brightly colored nostrums and hundreds of cats. Made a few purchases and walked down to Wat Po, the home of the Reclining Buddha, the largest reclining Buddha anywhere, I think. FABULOUS, and it wasn't crowded. Woo hoo!!! Once you see the Buddha, if you wander back through the Wat, you are richly rewarded with some of the most beautifully decorated plinths and temples and gateways in Thailand. This is truly a lovely spot and Muz found it photo rich. We finally made it back to the massage pavillion. Wat Po is the oldest traditional massage school in Thailand. The last time I was here they were rebuilding the pavillion. Now it is finished and open. It is air conditioned and beautifully decorated. You can select form an assortment of massage options. Muzzy did and hour and a half of herbal massage, $15. I did an hour herbal massage, about $10. After the massages, we were pretty wiped out and made our way to the pier to catch the river ferry back to the New Siam, stopping to have some somtam and fried rice. I had ordered "gai", chicken, but they sort of forgot us and when they remembered, I ended up with fried rice with squid and shrimp. Yummiest meal yet! Street food is still the freshest and best, hot off the propane burner. I love the way you sit in the middle of several carts and they all conspire to get you the food you want, yelling back and forth to each other, splitting the money up after you pay. The Thais eat here too.
Last trip we found a wonderful restaurant on the Chao Phraya called Kinlom Chomsaphan...roughly, eat the wind and look at the bridge...We loved it and looked forward to going back. This time it was full of young middle class Thais who looked like they were playing dress up from an Indian gangsta movie. It felt like young Thai date night. The food wasn't as good as we remembered. This was definitely not our place, it was their place and that's probably as it should be. It was a good night all things considered. The next night we visited Jok Pochana, which I almost missed as it used to be set up along the klong that runs through Banglamphu. It still is, but someone has built a huge 3 storey hotel along the klong so Jok Pochana has set its tables up across the street along the lane. Now that was good!!! Great food, lots of atmosphere, and much more relaxed.
This afternoon we are headed to the train station to catch the overnight Special Express to Chiang Mai in the north. It leaves at 6:00 pm and we have two lower sleepers. We arrive at 7:00 in the morning. Bangkok is fun, but the adventure begins now. The north is mellower and it just gets more laid back from here.
