Babi Guling

When we were here in 92, Ketut took us to his favorite warung for babi guling, roast suckling pig.  I remember liking it a lot, but it wasn't something usually found in the restaurants around Ubud then. And, of course, it wasn't served when we were up north in Lovina as those communities are primarily Muslim.  Now there is a relatively famous place for babi guling right at the bottom of Jl Suweta, just before the Ubud palace.  We did not know that Ibu Oka was "on the map" since Anthony Bourdain visited it a couple of years ago.  Ibu Oka, which started as a small warung (a small street eatery with a few stools or a single long bench with very limited menu), is now a lunch "must do" spot for bus loads of day tripping tourists who visit the art center of Ubud.  Ibu Oka has a second warung right on Jl Suweta, but the best spot is still the house where the pigs are slow roasted every morning well before dawn.  It's popularity has prompted a classy new building that backs on to a jungle ravine, open air, sparkling clean, where you can indulge in this luscious delicacy along with hordes of other Balinese.  The "spesial" gets you a plate of rice covered in samples of the various ways the pork is prepared and served.  There are succulent slices, thin leaner samples smothered in special spices, spicy pork sausage, cracklin' skin, a mixture of chilies and finely chopped pork, and a ground mixture that is slightly sweet.

 We walked down in the heat of the day.  They are not open for dinner, and only serve until they run out of pigs, from around 11:00am until 4:00 or 5:00.  So lunch it is.  We turned left just after the temple on Jl Terpa something and kept walking until we saw the sign, a pig with an arrow.  It was well worth the heat and sweat and discomfort and no fan.  There was a nice breeze, though, and surprise surprise, the best iced coffee I've had in Bali.  And the babi guling was so good, we are going back tomorrow, our last day here.

Food is not Bali's forte, although it is possible to get excellent Asian fusion food.  Ubud abounds with health food, health food drinks, magical Jammu, and New Age vegetarian fresh meals, wheat free pizzas and more.  Ibu Rai, an old established eatery on Monkey Forest Road surprised us so much that we returned the next day to try the Coriander Duck again, just to make sure.  It was sublime, comparing well to any 4-5 star restaurant we've eaten in in the US.  Tonight we are trying The Three Monkeys...the menu looked great.  Ordinary everyday fare is less exciting, nasi goreng, mie goreng, respectively rice fried and noodle fried.  These dishes can be very good, but tend to be a little greasy and the noodles for the mie goreng are often dried ramen noodles, not the nice thin egg noodles I remember.  I have never cared for Gado Gado, and what is called curry here is really more of a soup.  Last time we were here we coined the phrase "boring goreng" and while there are more choices available now, it's hard to get excited over the street food after being in Thailand, where I seldom eat western food.

There is one notable exception to Balinese street food and that is the Traditional Balinese Feast at Ketut's Place.  This is a truly notable experience because most of the food you get is Indonesian and geared to Western palates.  The Balinese feast is all traditional Balinese food, prepared by Ketut's staff, supervised by his wife, Wayan, who has a background in the restaurant business.  This is a family affair as well as a cultural experience.  Not to be missed if you are in Bali.

By the way...we did try THe Three Monkeys down near the end of Monkey Forest Road.  It is in a "u" shape with a rice paddy filling the center of the "u".  The ambiance is top notch, the food was definitely  5 star and the bill left us wishing we had discovered it sooner since we leave tomorrow.  

There seems to be two Balis, before "the movie" and after "the movie".  Before the movie is our favorite, but this new Bali, New Agey, yoga wacky, crowded and crazy, is still...well...Bali.  And there is something truly magical about this little island that manages to hold on to its traditions in the midst of modern mayhem.